Truffle Time in Istria

‘Tis the season for the white truffle in Istria and how lucky to be here for the Zigante Truffle Festival!  The prized white truffle of Istria is known to be among the highest quality, at least rivaling the truffle of Piedmont in Italy.  I would say don’t tell the Italians, but there were several cars from Italy, so I guess they already know.

The nice thing about the truffle festival here is how low-key it is.  It lasts for 10 weekends, in tiny Livade, population 190, in the center of Istria, surrounded by the Motovun forests where the truffle grows.  None of the difficulties often encountered at popular food festivals occurred here.  The event was free as was the easy parking in an unpaved lot literally around the corner from the tents.  There were enough people to be interesting but not enough to be crowded or create lines.  The vendors were generally the actual members of the family who make the products, and willing and happy to chat.  It was very personal and intimate.

Tasting coupons could be purchased for 10 kunas each (about $2) which could be used at the various wine and beer exhibitors.  The other vendors offered samples of their olive oils, honey, and cheese.  And the main booth, Zigante, had samples of various truffle spreads and truffle-infused honey,

charcuterie and cheeses.  At one end of the tent, chefs were making pasta and omelettes with white and black truffles for separate purchase. And just outside the tent, Hotel Restaurant Zigante is a fine truffle dining establishment, if one has time to linger and enjoy a long, leisurely lunch. Maybe next time…

The young couple who created the House of Olve Oil, a new shop in Rovinj showcasing only Istrian products, recommended that we go to Oprtalj for a meal at a Konoba there. I certainly earned my lunch driving the road of many switchbacks to get there!  But it was well worth it, sitting out on the covered terrace overlooking the vineyards and the mountains at Konoba Loggia, and sipping their Coslovich Teran wine with a meal of pork loin with mushrooms.

The return route to Rovinj was via the coast, with a stop in Poreč. I admit to lack of preparation – it was suggested as a nice coastal town to visit. so we did.  But until arrival there, I did not know about the Euphrasian Basilica, the oldest public church in the world.  (In my defense, I am quite happy to not know about something until I arrive, and “discover” it while there.) And as much as I love water and beaches, just the Basilica, with its Roman ruins, mosaics and full, fascinating history makes a stop in Poreč almost mandatory.  And it was raining, so the beach was just a dream.

All in all, a full day – white truffles, great lunch, interesting drive, and Roman ruins in a church.